Here is the clip from Bleau's Art. Only about half a year late :)
Earlier on that day I had climbed La Mouche and my personal nemesis: Holey Moley. If I had sticked that last move of Bleau's Art, it would have made pretty much the best bouldering day ever for me. I returned to it a couple of days later and did it in true "Like a Virgin Flash" -style.
The "Like a Virgin Flash", invented by Dr. G.(?), is a superb term in my opinion. Technically it means (if I understood correctly) that you do a problem, you have tried before, in a first go of a session. For me that is even more "positive" than a normal flash. Because how I see it, flashing a problem means that you are climbing too easy problems. "Like a Virgin flash" however means that you are clearly getting better. Well that time it just meant that I was there with a bit more fresher power supply.
Anyways Bleau's Art is a nice problem. If you go there, stop before you take the last path leading to it and take a while to ponder its looks.
torstai 8. lokakuuta 2009
sunnuntai 5. huhtikuuta 2009
La Mouche
It is a problem that I have tried on couple of visits to Font. I got pretty obsessed on doing it with the sequence that Bichet uses on the vid clip in bleau.info. That left hand crossover to the crimp just looks so cool, but it was way too hard for me. I was already about to give up on it, when Marko and Kikka said that they had found an easier sequence. I set out once more and this time could pull it.
Can't really say much about the difficulty or quality of the line as there was too much frustration involved. I recommend it though. It is usually free as it is a bit away from the main area. And the holds stay on the shade, which also reminds me that I should really get some reflectors.
La Mouche from jeguri on Vimeo.
Can't really say much about the difficulty or quality of the line as there was too much frustration involved. I recommend it though. It is usually free as it is a bit away from the main area. And the holds stay on the shade, which also reminds me that I should really get some reflectors.
La Mouche from jeguri on Vimeo.
torstai 2. huhtikuuta 2009
Three weeks in Fontainebleau
We are back (and almost recovered) from a three week trip to the Font. All went really nice. Gite, weather, company (thanks to Kaukopartio and K&K) all perfect. No problems with our daughter and even Ringa managed to stay out of hospital this time.
Here is a list of some of the problems I managed to do:
It felt also nice to do Composition des Forces (directe?) in Isatis and Le Lepreux (direct) in Elephant, as I failed to climb these on my first(?) trip to Font. Composition d F is also really nice problem.
This time I also managed to climb my record amount of "easier" circuit problems, maybe around 30. Couple of highlights in quality were Les Bretelles in Bas Cuvier and Le Flipper in 91.1.
All in all I had a little bit of trouble deciding whether to focus on doing few hard problems or climbing quantity of easier ones. In retrospect I think that I found a good balance between these targets. Although I must admit that on the last day of the trip, when I realized that Pancras (assis) will remain a project for me until the next trip, I felt really disappointed. Especially as I felt it was mainly because I did not have the patience to rest enough before trying it.
I have video footage from my ascents of La Mouche and Bleau's Art. I'll publish them during next couple of days. They are nothing special as I did not have the patience to film from different angles etc. Marko made a nice clip of my Magic Bus ascent, hopefully he will publish it when they return from their trip.
The mandatory chien pose
Here is a list of some of the problems I managed to do:
- Magic Bus, 7B+ (7B), Buthiers
- Dune (El Poussif), 7A+, Isatis
- La Mouche, 7B+, Cuisiniere
- Holey Moley, 7A+, Bas Cuvier
- Bleau's Art, 7B, Cuvier Merveille
It felt also nice to do Composition des Forces (directe?) in Isatis and Le Lepreux (direct) in Elephant, as I failed to climb these on my first(?) trip to Font. Composition d F is also really nice problem.
This time I also managed to climb my record amount of "easier" circuit problems, maybe around 30. Couple of highlights in quality were Les Bretelles in Bas Cuvier and Le Flipper in 91.1.
All in all I had a little bit of trouble deciding whether to focus on doing few hard problems or climbing quantity of easier ones. In retrospect I think that I found a good balance between these targets. Although I must admit that on the last day of the trip, when I realized that Pancras (assis) will remain a project for me until the next trip, I felt really disappointed. Especially as I felt it was mainly because I did not have the patience to rest enough before trying it.
I have video footage from my ascents of La Mouche and Bleau's Art. I'll publish them during next couple of days. They are nothing special as I did not have the patience to film from different angles etc. Marko made a nice clip of my Magic Bus ascent, hopefully he will publish it when they return from their trip.
The mandatory chien pose
tiistai 17. helmikuuta 2009
dr weed
Couple of days later I set out to film Texas again as I was not happy with the footage I got earlier.
But it was occupied and as I then tried to film T-Rex, I also noticed that I had left the camera mount home.
I decided then to go try dr weed. Again a problem that I had been trying already couple of years ago. On the last visit I thought that I had the crux move figured out (second move on the clip) but then the problem was the few moves after that which required a little bit of commitment. The hook on the start is so good that if you miss the hold you are throwing to you most certainly will drop to your back if not head first.
Now I felt strong enough for those too and got it filmed, at least part of it. I am not sure if it starts a couple of moves earlier, basically you could start all the way from the back of the cave.
Anyways I will be returning to it and maybe do a better video of it as it is one of the problems that stay dry even when it is raining.
It is filmed by placing the camera simply on a rock and no editing this time. More just a log video.
Also a few words about vimeo might be in place. You can basically view the clips in three different qualities. If you start playing directly from the one embedded here you will get the worst quality (SD), even if you put it in full screen. Then if you click on the links that lead you to my vimeo pages and play it from there you get the second best quality (1000x HD not so good packing quality). The best quality (full HD, ok quality) you will get by registering to vimeo (it is free), then you will find a download link in the lower right hand corner of the clips vimeo page. This is the original one that I have uploaded there. Now it is especially important as my (free) account in vimeo is restricted to one HD upload/week. So this clip shows up in pretty crappy SD as it is filmed quite far away. It should appear as HD automatically next week if I understood correctly, but the download link seems to work allready. So go on and register and download.
dr weed from jeguri on Vimeo.
But it was occupied and as I then tried to film T-Rex, I also noticed that I had left the camera mount home.
I decided then to go try dr weed. Again a problem that I had been trying already couple of years ago. On the last visit I thought that I had the crux move figured out (second move on the clip) but then the problem was the few moves after that which required a little bit of commitment. The hook on the start is so good that if you miss the hold you are throwing to you most certainly will drop to your back if not head first.
Now I felt strong enough for those too and got it filmed, at least part of it. I am not sure if it starts a couple of moves earlier, basically you could start all the way from the back of the cave.
Anyways I will be returning to it and maybe do a better video of it as it is one of the problems that stay dry even when it is raining.
It is filmed by placing the camera simply on a rock and no editing this time. More just a log video.
Also a few words about vimeo might be in place. You can basically view the clips in three different qualities. If you start playing directly from the one embedded here you will get the worst quality (SD), even if you put it in full screen. Then if you click on the links that lead you to my vimeo pages and play it from there you get the second best quality (1000x HD not so good packing quality). The best quality (full HD, ok quality) you will get by registering to vimeo (it is free), then you will find a download link in the lower right hand corner of the clips vimeo page. This is the original one that I have uploaded there. Now it is especially important as my (free) account in vimeo is restricted to one HD upload/week. So this clip shows up in pretty crappy SD as it is filmed quite far away. It should appear as HD automatically next week if I understood correctly, but the download link seems to work allready. So go on and register and download.
dr weed from jeguri on Vimeo.
lauantai 24. tammikuuta 2009
Texas
This one was hmmmm already a month ago? Huh time flies fast when you have a small daughter.
Back then I ended up on a problem I had tried in few vigorous session over the years. Its in Jurassic Park and called Texas. I had never really figured out the sequence for the top part. Most prominent way seemed to be using the foot holds on the left side of the arete and then either dyno or try some kind of a lock off. There is a puzzling picture of it in ropeless where the guy isn't using those foot holds at all, but I just always thought that its either his height or then just a pic of some unsuccessful beta.
After few futile attempts, I decided to try a sequence I had given up a long time ago. Heel hook way up high and then lock off. And again it felt as desperate as earlier, I was slapping some 50cm below the goal. But then I decided to just try to pull pull pull and see how high I could get my body before trying to reach with the right hand. To my surprise I hit something with my left foot and was in a stable lock off way up high. And indeed I could this time reach the top hold although only at the very slopery edge which was too wet to do anything on.
Anyways I was happy about this and knew that I could now do the problem on better conditions.
On the way out I stopped to test another nemesis, a problem called dr weed(?) and was really happy to notice some progress on that one too.
On the next day the wetter was better and I set out to do Texas and to film it. I was a bit tired from the day before and also forgot to took the remote control for the video camera. So the clip ain't that good this time. Also my first try on reggae did not work out that good.
Texas from jeguri on Vimeo.
Back then I ended up on a problem I had tried in few vigorous session over the years. Its in Jurassic Park and called Texas. I had never really figured out the sequence for the top part. Most prominent way seemed to be using the foot holds on the left side of the arete and then either dyno or try some kind of a lock off. There is a puzzling picture of it in ropeless where the guy isn't using those foot holds at all, but I just always thought that its either his height or then just a pic of some unsuccessful beta.
After few futile attempts, I decided to try a sequence I had given up a long time ago. Heel hook way up high and then lock off. And again it felt as desperate as earlier, I was slapping some 50cm below the goal. But then I decided to just try to pull pull pull and see how high I could get my body before trying to reach with the right hand. To my surprise I hit something with my left foot and was in a stable lock off way up high. And indeed I could this time reach the top hold although only at the very slopery edge which was too wet to do anything on.
Anyways I was happy about this and knew that I could now do the problem on better conditions.
On the way out I stopped to test another nemesis, a problem called dr weed(?) and was really happy to notice some progress on that one too.
On the next day the wetter was better and I set out to do Texas and to film it. I was a bit tired from the day before and also forgot to took the remote control for the video camera. So the clip ain't that good this time. Also my first try on reggae did not work out that good.
Texas from jeguri on Vimeo.
keskiviikko 21. tammikuuta 2009
Last one of the "old" videos
This one was the first video I made, filmed on a sunny weekend last autumn.
The plan was to try the new camera and film a problem called Sternenkante.
I had tried it on couple of visits already years ago, but managed to do it first time only a week before the filming.
It is a really nice one. Even with good friction it is a bit tricky, but I thought that I had finally figured out the "tricks". I was wrong. It still took a lot of tries before I finally had it dialed in again. After that I could again do it on every try.
And the grade? well its 6A+ in the guide book :)
Anyways here is the video.
Sternkante from jeguri on Vimeo.
The hard moves are the two first ones, after that its easy.
We also tried to film a traverse on the same block called "In da fingers and dat feet", but I failed to climb it. And as I have not climbed it previously, I did not want to "fake" it for the film either.
But here is a frame grab from the video.
Nice one also. As the block is on a slope it is actually climbing quite clearly upwards instead of traversing directly sideways. Theres also a nice pic of it in my brothers blog.
(no go that time either as it was too wet)
But the new video camera was not the only gadget on test that weekend. I had also a new Bialetti mokka pan. This model is called Brikka and has a weight on top of the nozzle. That way it will build up pressure and the coffee will burst out producing a nice crema. It is even easier to use than a normal Bialetti/mokka pan and very very recommendable.
As W. Güllich said: "You don't go for a coffee after climbing, coffee is an integral part of climbing."
Thats it for the "old vimeo stuff". The temps are back above zero here so now I dare to take the video camera again with me, so hopefully I'll get some new stuff done soon. Am also keen to try the effects of added memory and new hard disk on editing...
The plan was to try the new camera and film a problem called Sternenkante.
I had tried it on couple of visits already years ago, but managed to do it first time only a week before the filming.
It is a really nice one. Even with good friction it is a bit tricky, but I thought that I had finally figured out the "tricks". I was wrong. It still took a lot of tries before I finally had it dialed in again. After that I could again do it on every try.
And the grade? well its 6A+ in the guide book :)
Anyways here is the video.
Sternkante from jeguri on Vimeo.
The hard moves are the two first ones, after that its easy.
We also tried to film a traverse on the same block called "In da fingers and dat feet", but I failed to climb it. And as I have not climbed it previously, I did not want to "fake" it for the film either.
But here is a frame grab from the video.
Nice one also. As the block is on a slope it is actually climbing quite clearly upwards instead of traversing directly sideways. Theres also a nice pic of it in my brothers blog.
(no go that time either as it was too wet)
But the new video camera was not the only gadget on test that weekend. I had also a new Bialetti mokka pan. This model is called Brikka and has a weight on top of the nozzle. That way it will build up pressure and the coffee will burst out producing a nice crema. It is even easier to use than a normal Bialetti/mokka pan and very very recommendable.
As W. Güllich said: "You don't go for a coffee after climbing, coffee is an integral part of climbing."
Thats it for the "old vimeo stuff". The temps are back above zero here so now I dare to take the video camera again with me, so hopefully I'll get some new stuff done soon. Am also keen to try the effects of added memory and new hard disk on editing...
tiistai 16. joulukuuta 2008
Visitors from Finland
My brother, his wife and her brother visited us here about a month ago.
Their timing was great as the weather was really nice. Sunny and dry, but not too warm. And it rained for about a week starting from the day they left.
They of course ticked some nice problems, being as strong as they are. But I had also a nice weekend as I could do three new problems.
Below is a video from one of them, Damaszenerklinge, where my brother climbs it.
It is a compression endurance problem. The two crimps for the left are pretty much the only holds, otherwise it is mostly squeezing with hands and feet. No move feels particularly hard alone, the thing is to have enough strength left for the final move. I did not have the strength to lift my left hand and to press the wall before the final move to the top as my brother does on the clip. I did it as more dynamic (i.e. desperate) move from lower. So I really needed a spotter for that one, as there is a nasty rock under your back in the end, and was really happy that I could exploit the chance of having one.
Damaszenerklinge from jeguri on Vimeo.
There is also a couple of pics from the visit in my brothers blog.
Their timing was great as the weather was really nice. Sunny and dry, but not too warm. And it rained for about a week starting from the day they left.
They of course ticked some nice problems, being as strong as they are. But I had also a nice weekend as I could do three new problems.
Below is a video from one of them, Damaszenerklinge, where my brother climbs it.
It is a compression endurance problem. The two crimps for the left are pretty much the only holds, otherwise it is mostly squeezing with hands and feet. No move feels particularly hard alone, the thing is to have enough strength left for the final move. I did not have the strength to lift my left hand and to press the wall before the final move to the top as my brother does on the clip. I did it as more dynamic (i.e. desperate) move from lower. So I really needed a spotter for that one, as there is a nasty rock under your back in the end, and was really happy that I could exploit the chance of having one.
Damaszenerklinge from jeguri on Vimeo.
There is also a couple of pics from the visit in my brothers blog.
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