lauantai 24. tammikuuta 2009

Texas

This one was hmmmm already a month ago? Huh time flies fast when you have a small daughter.

Back then I ended up on a problem I had tried in few vigorous session over the years. Its in Jurassic Park and called Texas. I had never really figured out the sequence for the top part. Most prominent way seemed to be using the foot holds on the left side of the arete and then either dyno or try some kind of a lock off. There is a puzzling picture of it in ropeless where the guy isn't using those foot holds at all, but I just always thought that its either his height or then just a pic of some unsuccessful beta.

After few futile attempts, I decided to try a sequence I had given up a long time ago. Heel hook way up high and then lock off. And again it felt as desperate as earlier, I was slapping some 50cm below the goal. But then I decided to just try to pull pull pull and see how high I could get my body before trying to reach with the right hand. To my surprise I hit something with my left foot and was in a stable lock off way up high. And indeed I could this time reach the top hold although only at the very slopery edge which was too wet to do anything on.
Anyways I was happy about this and knew that I could now do the problem on better conditions.

On the way out I stopped to test another nemesis, a problem called dr weed(?) and was really happy to notice some progress on that one too.

On the next day the wetter was better and I set out to do Texas and to film it. I was a bit tired from the day before and also forgot to took the remote control for the video camera. So the clip ain't that good this time. Also my first try on reggae did not work out that good.


Texas from jeguri on Vimeo.

keskiviikko 21. tammikuuta 2009

Last one of the "old" videos

This one was the first video I made, filmed on a sunny weekend last autumn.
The plan was to try the new camera and film a problem called Sternenkante.
I had tried it on couple of visits already years ago, but managed to do it first time only a week before the filming.
It is a really nice one. Even with good friction it is a bit tricky, but I thought that I had finally figured out the "tricks". I was wrong. It still took a lot of tries before I finally had it dialed in again. After that I could again do it on every try.
And the grade? well its 6A+ in the guide book :)

Anyways here is the video.


Sternkante from jeguri on Vimeo.

The hard moves are the two first ones, after that its easy.

We also tried to film a traverse on the same block called "In da fingers and dat feet", but I failed to climb it. And as I have not climbed it previously, I did not want to "fake" it for the film either.
But here is a frame grab from the video.



Nice one also. As the block is on a slope it is actually climbing quite clearly upwards instead of traversing directly sideways. Theres also a nice pic of it in my brothers blog.
(no go that time either as it was too wet)

But the new video camera was not the only gadget on test that weekend. I had also a new Bialetti mokka pan. This model is called Brikka and has a weight on top of the nozzle. That way it will build up pressure and the coffee will burst out producing a nice crema. It is even easier to use than a normal Bialetti/mokka pan and very very recommendable.


As W. Güllich said: "You don't go for a coffee after climbing, coffee is an integral part of climbing."

Thats it for the "old vimeo stuff". The temps are back above zero here so now I dare to take the video camera again with me, so hopefully I'll get some new stuff done soon. Am also keen to try the effects of added memory and new hard disk on editing...