It is a problem that I have tried on couple of visits to Font. I got pretty obsessed on doing it with the sequence that Bichet uses on the vid clip in bleau.info. That left hand crossover to the crimp just looks so cool, but it was way too hard for me. I was already about to give up on it, when Marko and Kikka said that they had found an easier sequence. I set out once more and this time could pull it.
Can't really say much about the difficulty or quality of the line as there was too much frustration involved. I recommend it though. It is usually free as it is a bit away from the main area. And the holds stay on the shade, which also reminds me that I should really get some reflectors.
La Mouche from jeguri on Vimeo.
sunnuntai 5. huhtikuuta 2009
torstai 2. huhtikuuta 2009
Three weeks in Fontainebleau
We are back (and almost recovered) from a three week trip to the Font. All went really nice. Gite, weather, company (thanks to Kaukopartio and K&K) all perfect. No problems with our daughter and even Ringa managed to stay out of hospital this time.
Here is a list of some of the problems I managed to do:
It felt also nice to do Composition des Forces (directe?) in Isatis and Le Lepreux (direct) in Elephant, as I failed to climb these on my first(?) trip to Font. Composition d F is also really nice problem.
This time I also managed to climb my record amount of "easier" circuit problems, maybe around 30. Couple of highlights in quality were Les Bretelles in Bas Cuvier and Le Flipper in 91.1.
All in all I had a little bit of trouble deciding whether to focus on doing few hard problems or climbing quantity of easier ones. In retrospect I think that I found a good balance between these targets. Although I must admit that on the last day of the trip, when I realized that Pancras (assis) will remain a project for me until the next trip, I felt really disappointed. Especially as I felt it was mainly because I did not have the patience to rest enough before trying it.
I have video footage from my ascents of La Mouche and Bleau's Art. I'll publish them during next couple of days. They are nothing special as I did not have the patience to film from different angles etc. Marko made a nice clip of my Magic Bus ascent, hopefully he will publish it when they return from their trip.
The mandatory chien pose
Here is a list of some of the problems I managed to do:
- Magic Bus, 7B+ (7B), Buthiers
- Dune (El Poussif), 7A+, Isatis
- La Mouche, 7B+, Cuisiniere
- Holey Moley, 7A+, Bas Cuvier
- Bleau's Art, 7B, Cuvier Merveille
It felt also nice to do Composition des Forces (directe?) in Isatis and Le Lepreux (direct) in Elephant, as I failed to climb these on my first(?) trip to Font. Composition d F is also really nice problem.
This time I also managed to climb my record amount of "easier" circuit problems, maybe around 30. Couple of highlights in quality were Les Bretelles in Bas Cuvier and Le Flipper in 91.1.
All in all I had a little bit of trouble deciding whether to focus on doing few hard problems or climbing quantity of easier ones. In retrospect I think that I found a good balance between these targets. Although I must admit that on the last day of the trip, when I realized that Pancras (assis) will remain a project for me until the next trip, I felt really disappointed. Especially as I felt it was mainly because I did not have the patience to rest enough before trying it.
I have video footage from my ascents of La Mouche and Bleau's Art. I'll publish them during next couple of days. They are nothing special as I did not have the patience to film from different angles etc. Marko made a nice clip of my Magic Bus ascent, hopefully he will publish it when they return from their trip.
The mandatory chien pose
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