Texas

This one was hmmmm already a month ago? Huh time flies fast when you have a small daughter.

Back then I ended up on a problem I had tried in few vigorous session over the years. Its in Jurassic Park and called Texas. I had never really figured out the sequence for the top part. Most prominent way seemed to be using the foot holds on the left side of the arete and then either dyno or try some kind of a lock off. There is a puzzling picture of it in ropeless where the guy isn't using those foot holds at all, but I just always thought that its either his height or then just a pic of some unsuccessful beta.

After few futile attempts, I decided to try a sequence I had given up a long time ago. Heel hook way up high and then lock off. And again it felt as desperate as earlier, I was slapping some 50cm below the goal. But then I decided to just try to pull pull pull and see how high I could get my body before trying to reach with the right hand. To my surprise I hit something with my left foot and was in a stable lock off way up high. And indeed I could this time reach the top hold although only at the very slopery edge which was too wet to do anything on.
Anyways I was happy about this and knew that I could now do the problem on better conditions.

On the way out I stopped to test another nemesis, a problem called dr weed(?) and was really happy to notice some progress on that one too.

On the next day the wetter was better and I set out to do Texas and to film it. I was a bit tired from the day before and also forgot to took the remote control for the video camera. So the clip ain't that good this time. Also my first try on reggae did not work out that good.


Texas from jeguri on Vimeo.